Surf was fun today. Hope everyone got some fun ones. I went around lunch and it was definitely bigger in Southern Monmouth county than the forecast with some head high. I heard the morning was even bigger. Anyone get out in the morning?
Got out late morning... solid east swell with sets around head high. Fast, racy rights and slower, cleaner lefts. Not great with the swell direction, and a bit of north cross bump on it. But at least you could get a few.
i surfed cedars this morning on LBI, was unbelievable- some overhead sets and light offshore winds, along with a 48 degree weather made for an awesome winter surf sesh
was there too i got out around 10 and was able to stay in for so long because of the weather it was awesome
I surfed BH this morning around 11am and kind of caught off me off guard at how big it was. I was expecting offshore 2-4ft but it looked more like 4-6 ft. When you haven't surfed in almost two months and not dane reynolds, it's kinda hard adapting and just going out firing. Probably one of the worst sessions ever for me, saw people catching a few good ones but I just couldnt do *hit. Getting out past the sandbar was tiring, then paddling around on the outside with current pushing me out pissed me off even more - so I did more paddling then actually catching waves. It was still super fun, but not for me, just terrible day so disappointing but it happens. I was riding a 5'10 and thought it would have been little better maybe on 6'0 for extra paddling. I felt like I was swimming with weights in my suit..haha. Anyway, just venting that I totally blew it today..but stoked other's got barreled.
Yeah Yeah Yeah, I know, this video doesn't do this swell any justice, and the music s#$ks too! https://vimeo.com/60412059 Ryan
Ryan, Always enjoy watching your vids man. good stuff there. and im not usually crazy about gopro footage but that was pretty cool. im actually amazed at your turnaround time on your videos. shot yesterday, edited and up on this site today..... that would take me forever to do.
I feel you man, I was on a 5'8"... same exact thing happened to me, debating on going out today for some redemption.
That's one of my biggest struggles, after being out of the water for a long time and then going out in great but challenging conditions. It takes a while before everything starts to work as they should, probably at least an hour or two into the session. I know some wave snobs who do not go out unless it's head high, clean, and east coast perfect, going months without surfing sometimes, but never hear them complain about it. It's not like they travel a lot either. Everybody's different I guess. Yep, and what follows is a good 'ol redemption session. So you won't keep questioning your surfing abilities after a bad one.
Had a blast yesterday near Belmar mid afternoon. Took out my 7' fish. The bigger board def helped me catch a lot more waves. Good barrels and long lines with chest to head high and rather warm weather. Really couldn't have been much better.
