who here has been surfing this week?

Took my buddy's boat over to Masonboro and caught it good yesterday. Way better than WB or Topsail. Stomach to shoulder high and fairly clean. Saw a few come through that were head high or slightly over. Cool thing was my friends son is 8 so everything he took looked double overhead on him.

 

Yesterday I met up with a buddy of mine that I haven't surfed with in almost 2 years. He doesn't get to surf much since they had a couple of kids but he finally made it out yesterday and we surfed for about 6 hours. 3hrs starting at first light, then I got a sub from Publix and destroyed the whole thing in less an a minute (or so it seemed). Then paddled back out for another 3 hours.

There was plenty of swell still hanging around, had to find the right spot for the swell angle though and I knew exactly where to go, and we scored! He was trying to lure me up to another spot that would of shortened his drive over from the Gulf but I sold him on making the extra drive and he was glad he did. We had the place all to our self for the most part. We had a couple of people join us briefly but they didn't hang around too long.

Waves were around chest high, maybe a few larger sets rolled through. We rode the last few hours of incoming tide, and then the first half of the outgoing tide. Outgoing was better! There was a 45 minute window where it was just one after another and had size and power. The Fish was eating these waves up, I had so much fun turning that thing on rail and just leaning completely into every turn. Power for days!

My buddy was on his SUP and he was getting his fair share of waves. We didn't want to leave but he had a 3hr drive back so we called it and told each other lies about how big our last waves were and then hit the road. I went to Red Robin with my wife and pounded some Sam Adams Octoberfest, smashed a burger, and went home to puffed some herb, watch the football and then passed out on the couch. Happy.

 

I went back out this morning thinking there would be some left overs and sure enough there was a waist high line coming in. Very glassy and just peeling down the beach. Good thing I brought the LB this time, it was perfect for nose riding and lots of turns / cut backs. It's fading fast though, so i'm sure there won't be much left for later. Probably knee / thigh with the rare waist set later if it stick around through dark.

 

Who else has been surfing?

 

No surf here; been flat since Hermine went farting by....

 

Bummer, we're getting a nice little thunderstorm right now, at least it was a beautiful morning before it rolled in.

 

We've had a good run here in SENC. Mase on Friday morning was pumping. Open barrels, with some closeouts... but well overhead on the sets. I brought my standard regular wave shortboard, but could have ridden my good wave board. Was super fun. Friday afternoon was chunky, but still had size. I got smoked on a couple, but it was nice siting on the beach and drinking a few Modelos. Ben Bourgeois was out ripping... it always blows my mind to see current or former WCT guys surf... just sheer violence.

Saturday was CROWDED with a capital CROWDED. Sheet glass in the morning, smaller, but still some shoulder to head sets. It wasn't barreling like Friday, but long rippable walls. The pro's were out again (Fisher, Ben and Mason). Got my waves early and headed home...

It was nice to be surfed out for the first time in a while. Logged about 10 hours water time in 28 hours... not bad for the east coast. This is my favorite time of year... its either good fishing or good surfing... but alas, winter is coming.

 

We had a good run here in Charleston for the last five days; thanks to Julia sticking around. From what i remember, got in late Friday to work and got some schtick about it - guess i need to let the boss know i'm coming in late when they're not in the office. good to know, not much to gripe about i guess. Saturday i biked it six blocks up cuz of some westward drift. was mushy throughout Julia, my arms were pretty sore by Saturday but there were some sizeable waist highs still murmering around. sunday i went out for a two hour morning blast; had some decent ones but noticed the size dropping along with the output of waves. Not much of anything before work today, but around here it heavily is decided by the tides - 10:30am high tide. Looking forward to a Hot Karl at the end of the week. Time to get that cardio in

 

Went for a paddle this morning and picked up a few knee / thigh high peelers along the way, but overall it was pretty weak. Gorgeous morning though, glassy as could be and fish jumping and birds diving all over the place. It's not much of a surf story, but can't complain with the scenery.

 

Just came back to read stuff from that day. Matunuck was firing! Lots of wind, but my oh my were the peaks working. It was actually my first time surfing this break in years. I forgot about how cool that area is in general. Surfed the middle break for 3 hrs and just scored countless rides. If you were on that middle peak and took rights, if you took them in far enough- you could basically just sit on your board and the NE wind would blow you right back to the peak. The crowd was waiting on the left, at times it felt like I couldn't even reset at the wat back out without spinning on one and just going- so good. Myself and 2 other guys were having a blast- one of them I could tell was local and was super chill to surf with- good vibes. Great vibes all around that day- capped it off with some beers and a nice sunset overlooking the surf from Ocean Mist Bar.

 

It felt like the swell was all but gone after yesterday's weak dribble but I kept checking the buoy to see what it was doing. Forecast was suggesting flat basically and the buoy had faded to 1.6 - 2ft at 7- seconds. I went to bed thinking I'd just stay home in the morning and have breakfast a change.

I got up, and my wife asked if I was going surfing, I said probably not, without even checking the buoy, but then I said, "well, lemme go check and see what the buoy is doing while I drop this deuce". I pulled up the buoy and saw 4 different 1ft swells, all about 5, 8, 10, and 12 second so I KNEW there had to be a rideable wave somewhere, which I found. It wasn't as clean as yesterday but just a slight bump on the water from the light onshore breeze. Waves were knee to waist on an incoming low tide. Not epic or even good really, but it was pretty fun and much better than I thought considering I wasn't even going to go. But I did, and i'm glad.

 

Finally got a real swell. Hurricane surf with pretty short periods. A few feet overhead and pretty consistent. The sand is almost gone, so entry and exit was tricky, and backwash was becoming a problem at mid-tide. High-tide is a no go. Big blue peaks and rampy shoulders. Got it for a solid hour and a few minutes. Nice to have some water moving around. Haven't seen size like this since June. Look like the summer is wrapping up with a bang.

 

Sunny, glassy, 61 degree water with head high to well overhead peaks, shoulders and tubes with more juice than usual. One local broke a fin off his quad, another guy snapped in half a very expensive longboard. Got a handful of dry tubes and linked a boatload of turns...I'm officially spent.

All this with just 7 locals on the peak.

God I love Fall.

 

Missing the fall swells on a fire assignment cutting trees all day. Super gay

 

I told you guys as soon as I went back to work in mid September that there would be decent swell every day. I've already been getting picture texts taunting me with what I'm missing! Probably don't have a day off for another 10 days, which I'll undoubtedly have to use to catch up on hours of missed sleep haha.

 

Stop your whining. Here in NH....FLAT....again.
And people travel to NH as a surf destination?? Now you know why surfers are morons......

 

Swell from Karl starting to filter in this morning. It was waist high on sets with long lulls between. You could tell it was from a distant source. There were a few that rolled through with some power though and I took them for a nice long ride on the LB. Swell should continue to filter in through the day and probably hit chest / shoulder range by the end of the day but wind will probably bump it up a bit by then.

 

Dude, this is exactly how you sounded at this same exact time last year lol.

Then when your tour of duty was about to end, you were complaining that the surf was probably going to be sh!t. Remember that?

Remember that killer run of surf we had when you finally finished? I do.

You'll be fine, kid. We've still got a few good days left.

Personally, I've found it harder to live at the beach and not be able to surf, as opposed to living 4 hours away when you know its cranking. So I know what you're going through.

So how much more time you have left playing with your Pulaski?

 

Anybody else getting any waves from Karl yet? Should be a few out there who surfed today.

 

Looks like Jersey is on schedule for sets ranging between waist and chest+ starting tmrw through Sunday. I intend on going all out during that time period. Can't come soon enough. Look forward to some Joisy posts this weekend.