who here has been surfing this week?

Heard that. I'm no longer hungry though, I'm starving. I have my plans to make it out West and hopefully sooner rather than later.

 

No pulse, NJ is DEAD. Can't even get a break on my holiday weekend.

 

U make it out here ill point you in the right direction

 

Got some fun ones today... surprisingly. Thigh to belly high, clean, glassy log sliders. Then the wind came up and put some bump on it, but the sets still kept coming.

If you try to chase happiness, it will always be just out of reach.

 

Shot a few pics waiting for buddy to paddle out with me. It was going off! Then maybe 40 minutes into the session a strong offshore wind came up. Straight offshore but easily 25 on the gusts. Cut what looked like an amazing session short. drop dead gorgeous afternoon. feels like the water is easing up a few degrees as well.

The inshore buoy was reading 15 second swell period...pretty nice setup with that storm spinning off Nova Scotia.

 

Awesome photos, thanks for keeping the stoke alive, Mitchell!
It was just like that down here today as well - perfect clean A frames (if I were a GI Joe action figure).

 

took off a bit early from work to light the stoke of sharing waves with some buds who managed to do the same. Well worth it, i think. It was pounding HH at the home front beach break, a well deserved paddle out. One side of the pier read rights, and on the other side saw lefts. I went in for the rights (don't have a preference), much easier route to get into the water without a lengthy, pounding paddle out. Took the 7'2" Angulo Fisch "Hog Molly", since there was a bit mush. Best wave perhaps was one that developed from white wash to splitting into several sections - mini-barrels stuff. The waves were breaking everywhere, no set line to the madness, but still kept a pretty clean shape. The longer i stayed in, the more fun i had. It got dark tho, and my buddies paddled in a good bit before i gave up too. Truly fantastic, wasn't expecting the size, and got plenty to hold me off til next wknd. Brought in some donuts today to the office to deflect any criticism for dipping out early

 

Swell faded and all that's left is small / weak long period lines breaking close to shore, tide had it drained out. I was all suited up and ready to go but it wasn't enough to get wet. Might be better now with a little more water, but doubt it.

 

had a great session at WB last night. after the tide switched it only got better until dark. super stoked!

 

Always look forward to your photos
Thanks Mitchell

 

We got another little pulse from that long period system Mitchell gave us all a heads up on. Yesterday it wasn't really working but today was a solid waist high with an occasional chest high peak on the outside every 10-15 minutes or so. I rode the LB and caught many fun rides, almost all the way the shore until it got deep on the inside and fizzled out. These had good form on the peak but the shoulders were a bit soft and crumbly, making the LB the right call.

 

Mitchell, your pics are good stuff & always make my day - - thx for posting them, mang.

DP, your reports also make my day - - gracias!

 

How about an update Trev??

You may be in for a big surprise upon your return..



Hope you are getting the waves you seek

 

I had three surf this week the first were at Sandy Beach and Pools in Puerto Rico. I am 49 and have only been surfing just a handful of times per year for at least the last 10 years.Sandy Beach was four to five feet and that was my first surf in 6 months. Needless to say it took the second session to really get my feet back and surf adequately. It felt bad being a decent surfer to be schooled by a 25 year old kid out there, but I did have to keep things in perspective.Flew home on Tuesday said I'm going to surf this winter went and bought a wetsuit. Went out on Wednesday for my first mid-February surf the same 10 or 15 years. I had a blast was quite warm and caught a few on the longboard I am stoked to be stoked again I will surf a lot with my daughter this year.

 

Good on ya, Darryl. I was in your boat not too long ago. The stoke never dies. It didn't take long to get my surfing legs back. Just keep at it, enjoy the ride dude.

 

I went out with my crew this morning. We were greeted by waist high, some shoulder high, semi clean waves with only about a dozen dudes on it. You gotta love bright sunny Florida mornings with zero breeze and 72 F water.

It was harder to paddle out than it looked, and I kept getting pushed back to the shore, but even that's fun if you're patient and stay in the moment. The water was alive with blue fish or jack and a few spinner sharks for entertainment.

Finally, there was a good lull and I made it out to the lineup. This waist high came right to me and the drop felt great. As some of the older dudes here will appreciate, the body can be such a traitor, and it ****ed me over, so I ended up pitched off the side of the board. That ended the sesh. But I still have that magical feeling of the drop to carry me through until tomorrow mornings surf adventure.

 

Thank you!

 

This morning was so damn fun! Clean, light offshore wind, solid and consistent waist high with sets up to chest high and just peeling for days. I've been having fun on the LB lately so I rode it againe today. I was able to pull out all the tricks today with long clean lines and wide open shoulders. Mostly lefts but some rights mixed in here and there.

I must have caught about 50 waves in 2hrs, no sh*t. It was non stop. Water felt great. I felt like I was in tune with the ocean and was clicking on all cylinders. By the end of the session I felt fulfilled and at peace. Not the biggest waves, but I had the place to myself and I was able to gorge myself till I was more than full.

 

Indeed.

 

Do you live in a landlocked area? I can't imagine only getting to surf a handful of times per year, but I do appreciate the days more that I do get to surf, after it being rare and hard to do in the Winter months the last 5 or 6 years, due to my job. I'm glad you're getting into it again though!