Am trying to rebuild my quiver and am looking for advice/ideas. Mainly I'd like to know what you guys like for HH++ tube days in NJ/east coast in general. Something that deals well with current, late drops, and other issues raised when dancing with heaving pits. To provide context, I am 5'11, 165, been surfing almost 30 years and just sold most of my boards so trying to rebuild a quiver. Am trying to get together: (1) a groveler (2) an all-arounder / everyday board (3) NJ tube hunter (4) something weird alternative or innovative ... for example: (1) groveler: something like http://www.comparesurfboards.com/reviews/grovelers/panda-surfboards-bear-essentials-surfboard-review (2) all-arounder: 5'6 or 5'8 firewire dominator or maybe a firewire nano in the 5'6 range (3) a tube hunter: 5'10 or 6'0? .... this is where i'm a little lost right now ... not sure what the ideal board is for those winter days full of current and with slabby late drop tubes. this is where i need the most advice. i never had a board that was really good for this - either am struggling with the paddle power or the board ends up being longer than i like (e.g. i had a 6'3 that was good for getting in and getting tubed but it wasnt all that maneuverable). (4) something weird alternative or innovative: firewire vanguard? this is not meant to replace the standard si quiver thread: http://www.swellinfo.com/forum/showthread.php?15805-Quiver-Thread-Post-em-up!/
about the dominator - it has been tweaked and improved upon (imo) with the unibrow....i have one and it went quite well in 6ft swells last week. for your size maybe 6/2 or 6/4 as board a bit smaller than its length suggests. i have a 6/10 and i'm 6/0 and 220 lbs.
My jersey quiver 5'8 21.25 2.4 Stretch Gbuzz skate deck for knee to chest 6'0 20.5 2.4 Stretch Buzzsaw skate deck for waist to head 6'2 20.18 2.62 stretch skate for waist to 2 ft overhead. My all rounder 6'4 19.75 2.62 stretch 2x4 for shoulder to way overhead. Board is so fast a flies down the line and makes unmakeable barrels makeable.
thanks just watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tdb37G0-Jc seems like that would be a good all arounder and maybe even tube board ....
lost mini driver has a full outline with low rocker and a roundpin. Solid for big NJ days because it gives you some paddle help when you're wearing rubber, and has low rocker to deliver down the line speed and roundpin to keep you from skittering out. It was designed as a low-rockered tubehunter and i really like mine which is a bit overvolume.
does anybody out here in jersey use a single-fin shortboard when its hollow? i feel like that would be really fun.
i agree - but havent tried ... i've been looking for an appropriate board but they are tough to find. something like the knost bmt - pinny with a big single fin
I've found that low entry rocker boards do help with paddling into waves, but can lead to disastrous consequences when the take offs are late, and bottom's dropping out... particularly right after the cleanup when the winds are blowing hard offshore. There's things you can do with bottom contours to flatten the rocker down the stringer for speed, but you generally want to keep to single to double concave bottoms, with some vee and kick in the tail. I also prefer round or rounded pins, and like the thuster setup for big waves, contrary to what's becoming popular now with quads in big surf. If you've got an all-arounder that works in waves up to a foot or two overhead, you're really looking for a board that's designed for waves approaching DOH... and that's when you want some length. Generally, when it's that big, you don't care too much about maneuverability. You want the board to respond, but paddling and making tubes is the board's primary function. Don't be afraid to go longer. The key is fin placement, toe, and cant, to get both the responsiveness you want, and the speed you need. I'm 6'1, 190lbs, and I ride a 6'6 round tail in good surf, up to about head and a half. On the biggest days of the year... when it's macking 10' plus... I pull out a 7'0 rounded pin and can paddle effectively in the wind and current, and make tubes all day. But I'm 50 years old. You could go much shorter than that, but that gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.
To the OP...One of the best boards I owned for the type of conditions you are talking about was a CI proton. 6'1"x18 5/8"x2 3/8". Continuous curve throughout and a deep single. Board always held in even during the latest drops. Rounded mini squash worked great and still realeased pretty easily. Shouldn't have sold it...great winter board!
the board I rode for the biggest day of the year,12ft was a 6'10 pintail becker.it died in the shorebreak after years of abuse. head high tubes u can get away with anything from a 5'10 to a 6'4 depending on ur size and age.my 6'2 is my everyday board,its usually good to 6ft.i cant ride my 6'2 in anything under 4ft,i dunno it just doesn't catch small waves no matter how hard u paddle.i do notice some of the older guys riding thicker longer boards on 6ft days.i also see people on longboards getting more barreled then guys on standard shortboards.its all trial and error,i really don't know shyt about boards as far as rocker and the other stuff.i usually pick em by size and they are always used.I never bought a new board in my life,never had the money.i recently picked up a new 6'0 curious to how it paddles,its pretty thick supposed to be a small wave board.dont bother asking what shaper,it was bought online cheap,probbably made in china,but if I can get a winter worth of waves il be satisfied
ok I noticed I said I never bought a new board,then said I just picked up a new board lol.I wouldn't call it a new board,I found it on ebay for 175 bucks,no name shaper,probly mass produced in china or something.not too fancy,I was extremely disappointed in the quality,and it was supposed to be a fish but they sent a squash instead.I wouldn't recommend it for a true surfer who uses quality sticks
I agree with what LBCrew said. winter barrels are about late drops and making a smooth, fin and rail engaged bottom turn. Flat entry rocker drives me nuts on those kinds of days. Too many waves everything seems to go exactly as planned, and right when you think you've got it made the forward rail grabs some water near the bottom of the wave and suddenly and you're all over the place with your weight forward.
LBCrew & mitchell: what i'm gathering is "bite the bullet & get a real step up" ... so if i summarize comments: head-high+ tubes, "easy conditions" ie not crazy current => 5'10 to 6'0 unibrow or proton type board. pretty standard here. but the challenge is those days when the waves look super epic from the beach. overhead to well overhead tubes with good form. then you paddle out and find crazy current, rips, suck-out-bowl tubes that are tough to get into. and for this maybe you do need an OBSF ( ocean beach san fran ) type board: length, volume, paddle power but still trimmed out in tail and w/rocker. e.g 6'6+ traditional step up. but i wonder if some tricky use of volume / width would work too ... cant help but think something like a 6'0 hyptokrypto. thing has 36L volume but that narrow, pinny tail.
That pinny tail on the hypto keeps a wide, flat board loose. Don't let it deceive you into thinking it will handle jacking, suck-up bowls. It won't. But I think your instincts are right with the use of volume and foil... combined with outline. I like more volume down the middle on boards for good to epic surf. This lets you get a thinner rail and tail, that helps do what Mitchell said... smoothly engage the rail at speed, even in a tightly curved part of the wave face (the tube.) Bigger, steeper, hollower waves like thumping NJ beachbreaks like narrower, longer, more rockered boards. Don't get me wrong, you can make any board work in any wave. But I think boards like this make it easier to make more waves and have more fun when the conditions are challenging.
not sure why I advertised that guys board for him when I'm trying to sell my own...lol. http://www.swellinfo.com/forum/showthread.php?24069-6-8-quot-step-up-surfboard-for-sale-(NJ)
satanv, mitchell and lbcrew are spot on with this one. definitely want some rocker or else you are not gonna be making those late drops. im 6' 185 and i have a 6'8" rounded pin step up. only ridden it a few times but when i did i was glad i had the volume as it made me feel extremely confident with that much foam. if you wanted to go shorter and redistribute the foam a bit, the lost rockup seems like a pretty cool idea, although im not sure how severe the "low entry rocker" is on this thing.
this is all very helpful in terms of how to best use our upcoming season's biggest surf. i'll start scouring craigslist for something that "will work." sounds like 6'6 is a good place to start, with the the shape you guys are talking about. the thing is, it's just so rare to actually have to pull such a board out around here ... but i'm getting that you guys are glad you have one around when the opportunity arises. SJerzSrfr - agree the rockup seems to tick the boxes: crowds, moving water, still maneuverable, pinny ...