How does swell info work?

it uses buoys buoy

 

I would imagine the algorithm used takes into account wave height and period mainly to estimate wave size at shore. Just as it cannot factor in what tide changes and bathymetry may do to a wave I don't think it factors in what wind will do to size. I may be totally wrong here as this is just my guess. Maybe Mr. SI will let us know?

 

The forecasts for today here in NH by SI was for head high surf.
Today we have shin to knee high.
Flipping a coin works just as well......

 

Bass..I've noticed the same. My guess is this. For you guys and o barry, the model musta thought there would be a greater easterly component. Just looking at the difference b/t the LI/NH/RI forecast. They have RI as flat, which it is.

Why the software can't detect that it didn't happen and adjust accordingly, I reckon I don't know about that.

 

We have to keep in mind, these are computer "models".
Same goes in "climate change" arguments.....computer modeling comprises a great number of the "studies". They are crap, evidenced by simple wave forecasting. Same thing.
So...back to coin flipping.....

 

o barry

 

Ouiji Board??

 

U mean 0 emazz

 

I think this has much to do with it. For VA/NC it will howl NW>N>NE....the timing of such will determine swell direction/height etc. SS hit the big question...why does it not adjust as the data changes in close to real time. I have noticed this same phenomenon when tropical systems are approaching the coast.

 

The data is probably entered by human fingers on a key board.

 

This is just an opinion.
So data is collected and entered into an algorithm right? So it is basically a mathematic equation making a prediction on the data it collects. The data changes all the time especially with wind swells. sometimes the variables change and a waist high wave may be shoulder high or vice versa There was an all or nothing type deal today. a few degrees in swell direction meant the difference between a good wave and dead flat.

that's why it is always worth a look. could have rolled up to a good time with no one on it.

 

^^^ This makes the most sense. That swell angle is key. For example, too much North or South in the swell direction, at least here, can cause it to run parallel with shore or near parallel and not produce a wave near shore. Adjust this theory according to your coast line and what direction it faces in accordance with the swell / wind angles.

Also, if it's blowing hard offshore it could be knocking down any swell energy coming in if the swell is not strong enough to oppose the wind or if the angle isn't direct enough of a hit. Or something like that...

 

Just drive the Belmar- it's always at least head high

 

if you're 23' tall

 

You will always lose with Cramer picks!!

 

At least you looked. I got up this morning to check and stepped outside and said forget it. friggin cold this morning.
If you got the day off I think I know a place that might be doing something. requires a drive and it might not be doing anything.....but it's a good drive.

 

How frequently are the forecasts updated? I've seen it change over the course of a day, but never really tracked how many changes per day there are and when they happen.

 

Every 6 hours dawg, 6 & 12.