How would you describe riding a wave?

i think i would describe it as participating in something that was beyond control.absolutely instantaneously addictive after that 1st ride too.i think that's the allure is the fact of it's uncontrolability is why we go back time & time again,to see what the next ride will be like.you can't control any wave,but only try to put yourself in the most optimum part of it,but even then you only have a second or 2 to get to that sweet spot before the wave takes over & works you if you miss the window.hey,gettin worked by a big wave every once in a while lets you know your alive & only a participant in that realm.

 

Id say that its like temp. nirvana, like everyhthing in that moment makes sense and you feel completely at ease and free. I like how the world just feels like its stopped and im all alone yet part of something that is bigger and more interconnected than me.

its hard to articulate it without sounding a little corny.

 

It feels like u loose all time and i dont think at all when im on it. Also just being out there is just an awesome thing, expecially when ur alone, it just sounds so awesome and is so peacefull

 

I dont think about anything I am when surfing. Everthing seases to exhist and its just me and the waves

 

I'm on the same wavelength. For me, its about letting going of the responsibilities that are on land. Its about getting back to nature. Not trying to control Nature, but flowing with it. I find it very freeing.

 

For me, it is completely irreplaceable. Nothing else on Earth matters when I'm on a wave. It's my stress-reliever.

 

I find myself almost blacking out really good rides. the epic rides or barrels usually dont slip my memory though....

 

The great Hawaiian King Makahuni said 'The only spooky stuff is the real spooky stuff that is real spooky.'

 

next time you go surf, after you catch a wave, try to remember what you were thinking about during your ride. probably, all you'll be able to remember is the ride itself, which is why people love it so much. it clears your mind of everything but what is happening at that exact moment, which is very purifying. you are devoid of thought when you ride a wave, focused simply on the here and now.

surfing and heroin make your brain emit the same type of endorphin, except surfing is a totally pure and healthy pursuit so it leaves a completely positive impression on your synapses. this could explain why when some people learn to surf, they surf until they die. it's like an addiction, a mental and emotional leash that keeps you close to the source until you've had enough to take the edge off for a little while.

so, if i had to describe riding a wave, i would say it's like shooting up the most pure heroin on earth without ruining your life or waking up in a strange house with people you've never met before the next day.

 

"your not thinking about your problems back on the beach."

you cant explain in words how it feels to be shot out of a spitting barrel behind you-pure adrenaline(<spelling?)

 

it is hard to describe but id say that it is like controlling nature kind of. you can do ehat ever you want to do when youre on it. when im surfing not much goes through my head just chill.

 

i agree with the first par completely. a lot of the time i don't even remember the whole wave, just like a turn i lined up, or the lip pitching over. it's pretty weird how that happens. also, i don't think it's possible to think of anything else besides the wave when you're on it.

with that being said, do heroin much?? ha

 

when the waves are really good it seems that my entire life comes into focus. i am never more content than when i am nestled in the pocket of overhead beachbreak. i often have nothing to say other than "thank you jesus".

 

lol nah, a while back one of the mags did an article on the chemical process of "stoke" and it compared the dopamine rush you get from riding a wave to that you can get from a drug or sex or another type of physical stimulation. the good feeling you get from riding a wave is very close to a viable "high", just a natural one rather than a chemically induced one.

 

What A STUPID analysis!!!

Dude, what you are saying is that we can hope that somehow surfing can be as good as the best heroin. Wow, and the Nirvana song is so in touch. Without responsiblity there would be nothing to escape from. Therefore, why surf if surfing is only a drug for you?
You are dissing surfing and the feeling of freedom that we get in boh life and surfing when we can take on a challange and beat it. Yes the wave is the challange. We choose to take it on, we beat it or it beats us. Either way we get back up and try again.
Or like you did in your post, we compare what we do with what a loser drug addict does. What a pathetic comparrison. Why not compare it with another positive like the feeling of scoring a game winning touchdown, a walk off homerun, or it feels like I am closer to God at that moment, pure yes, but not pure like heroin. Take a look on the internet and look at heroin addicts, look how pure and close to nature they look. Look at the track marks all over their arms, and tell me how that or they are pure. That and they are pathetic. It is sad and I would never compare any positive thing in surfing or life to drug use. Look on the internet and tell me how looking at photos of people strung out on heroin could ever be compared to surfers in the surf riding the perfect wave
P E A C E, bro!

 

I would say it's the closest feeling to flying that you can get without wings.
Flying so fast down the line that tears build up in your eyes and you cant see.
Damn... I love surfing.
So stoked for winter.

 

I say its like nothing else matters expecially when its big.. once your makeing a heavy paddle or eyeing a big section infront of you nothing matters but trying to make it. When its smaller i just feel fun kickin down the face looking for the sweet spot. But in the winter after i get a good wave and take a cold one on the dome i alayws get this like lightheaded numbness (not a icecream) in my head that i can only compare to being baked. love it

 

read my posts again and that is not what i said. the chemical process in your brain when you catch a good wave is identical to the one that occurs when you use drugs, or feel good about anything at all. the feeling of scoring the game winning touchdown or hitting the walk off homerun is the exact same thing. it's a release of dopamine. plain and simple, you feel good doing it and you want to feel that same kind of good as much as possible. so you paddle out again. and again and again.
when i said it was a pure feeling, i was referring to surfing. it's a totally pure, clean, healthy pursuit so you feel good about it every time you do it.

try reading my posts again. i think they might've been over your head.

 

Conway, don't even get involved in a silly argument with this kid. I thoroughly read your post and can say that you covered all basis along with an interesting comparison. If others wish to be adversaries, I would simply ignore them because your post was spot on!