I am looking for thin polyurethane foam sheets

Discussion in 'Surfboards and Surfboard Design' started by ScorchieLeWave, Jun 18, 2012.

  1. ScorchieLeWave

    ScorchieLeWave Well-Known Member

    101
    Nov 15, 2010
    Just wondering if anyone wants to sell some polyurethane foam scraps. They could be pieces cut off to make a board, perhaps where the board was considerably thinner than the original blank and they were sawed or hotwired off. I may have to simply buy a block of foam and hotwire my own - if I can't find anyone who already has them hotwired or who can do this in a pinch, I will simply have to buy and hotwire them myself, but I thought I'd ask first what might be out there, and how much you would want for it. I'm not in any emergency situation so no hurry.
    Thank you.
     
  2. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    What is it you're trying to do?

    PU blanks are generally thinned by planing, not hotwire. EPS is sometimes hotwired, but usually planed as well.
     

  3. ScorchieLeWave

    ScorchieLeWave Well-Known Member

    101
    Nov 15, 2010
    True, hotwiring is normally done to EPS foam. I would perhaps need a saw. I just want some thin sheets of polyurethane foam - about a 1/2" or even less in thickness. In a sawmill, they would just run a block of wood through a saw and cut it. One could probably do the same with polyurethane foam. However, I really would like sheets that are the same size as typical foams - say 24" x 6 - 8'. I would take stuff only 3' long if that's all there is. I'm really just challenging myself to think how I would cut such a piece of foam if this type of thing isn't around handy. I don't think that it would be easy to do with a planer without making a mess. I'm sure that I could use a handsaw on a polyurethane blank though, and come up with usable (thin) sheets of foam. It just takes some patience. I've decided that I'll just use a handsaw on some block foam. Done deal.
     
  4. ScorchieLeWave

    ScorchieLeWave Well-Known Member

    101
    Nov 15, 2010
    What am I doing?

    I need the scraps to fix and alter old boards. But in this case, rather than fixing a small delamination, I am fixing a major portion of a board, and I would like to do it without putties or cabosil/resin mixtures to get the best strength/weight ratio. I could just cabosil but this method could be better in the long run. It just takes more patience.
     
  5. ScorchieLeWave

    ScorchieLeWave Well-Known Member

    101
    Nov 15, 2010
    A thought occurred to me that I might try some strips of wood. I have shaped wood fins and they are perfectly fine - I've done cedar all the way up to Brazilian Walnut. I just have to decide what strength wood I want to use for the purpose at hand. It might work to use wood. Easier to find wood than strips of foam. Hah-hah.
     
  6. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    Your project sounds like you need a big spread of foam to cover a large area. I agree that resin and cell or cabosil is not a good idea. I've never done it, but it sounds like an application to mix and Pour liquid foam

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7jJCrrFLcw&sns=em
     
  7. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Yes... pour foam would be best. In order to get a good bond with the thin sheet and the blank, you need a smooth, uniform surface, which could be hard to get.

    So... I guess this is some really valuable board worthy of restoration???
     
  8. ScorchieLeWave

    ScorchieLeWave Well-Known Member

    101
    Nov 15, 2010
    I might give foam a try

    When I first thought about this issue, I looked into pour foam. At first, I felt that it might be too expensive compared to just using shavings. And I wanted something higher than 2lb. density - I wanted like 8lb. But when I priced it out, it's like at least 40 or 50 bucks and I was worried that I might ruin my board. But I'll still look into this. Thanks for the link - it looked pretty easy there but it's not as easy to pour foam onto a board. But I can put a piece of 24" plywood over the board and weight it down. It might work since it's a concave I'm filling in. Who knows?

     
  9. ScorchieLeWave

    ScorchieLeWave Well-Known Member

    101
    Nov 15, 2010
    It's a valuable board in the sense that it has no major flaws and I caught 30 waves on it yesterday, but it doesn't plane properly hence my altering the bottom's shape. It's just an ok board - but boards are like animals - they are all cool in their own way, irregardless of how ugly they might be to a girl.
     
  10. ScorchieLeWave

    ScorchieLeWave Well-Known Member

    101
    Nov 15, 2010
    Correct me if I'm wrong, 2lb. density might be enough, but 3lb. would be better for heavier surfers or tow-boards or guns. I think I need at least 3lb. density or I'll wind up with too many pressure dings.
     
  11. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    I'm starting to think you're crazy, brother. You caught 30 waves on a board that has no major flaws and you want to fill in the concave? I just don't get it. But if you insist...

    Typically you use pour foam to fill in foam, which you then shape and glass over. Since the strength is in the glass, and you're not pounding the bottom of the board with your feet, you only need 2 lb. foam. Higher density foam only adds weight you don't need.

    Your project is not an easy or quick one. You should be pulling off the bottom glass to do this, then glassing, hotcoating, and sanding. You need some serious skills to do this, and you risk screwing up your board to the point of no return.

    Or... you could go old school, and just use Bondo!
     
  12. ScorchieLeWave

    ScorchieLeWave Well-Known Member

    101
    Nov 15, 2010
    Once I get the property density of pour, I guess my biggest issue is how to keep this thing from blowing the lid off when I try to seal it in. I don't really know how well I can contain the pour inside the concave of the board. Obviously, I will need a clever way to either pour through a hole and seal it. It sounds like a challenge but I don't think it's real difficult - I am only flattening about 3 or 4 feet of the board - essentially, the front section (towards the nose) of the board.
     
  13. garbanzobean

    garbanzobean Well-Known Member

    257
    Sep 15, 2010
    Sounds like you are dying to shape a board. Get a blank and do it. Sell the other one before you ruin it. 2 sawhorses, a grinder and a tree for shade. Can't get anymore soulful than that.
     
  14. ScorchieLeWave

    ScorchieLeWave Well-Known Member

    101
    Nov 15, 2010
    I'm not really crazy - just patient since it's not an emergency. But catching waves is one thing, ..., the board stinks. I have other boards that are better. I just want this particular board to be better also.

    But I might just make a concrete cast by using some spars for the shape and then pouring into that outside with a real tight lid. So if it tries to blow the lid, no big problem. The hardest part here is to get the right shape. I could first make a plaster or bondo cast then use THAT shape to make the concrete mold. Then pour into the mold. Tedious but at least there is 0% chance of ruining the surfboard since all I have to do is peel the foam off the concrete and set it in the concave with some stickum, then glass over it. Might need some wax paper or surfboard wax to make sure things peel off smoothly. But this way I don't have to surform off a heap of foam.

    If I just pour some in the concave, it will rise pretty darn high and involve a lot of surforming.
     
  15. ClemsonSurf

    ClemsonSurf Well-Known Member

    Dec 10, 2007
    gotta see this board

    Post a pic. Seems like this is a longboard that uses the concave for noseriding.