Small waves vs. Big Waves

i try to be lighter on my feet in smaller surf, applying less force through my turns, & react more quickly to things. it's less of a conscious adjustment than something that just happens.
in the really big stuff (DOH+), it becomes more about making the wave & less about trying to fit turns into the ride. though comfortable in that size surf, i'm definitely on the edges of "survival mode" when the surf gets into that size range.
w/ my size, the middle range is where i really come into my own...that chest-HH+ range. that's when i really feel like my size starts to work more to my advantage & the wave has the energy to allow me to really push through my turns w/out running the risk of losing the wave or sliding out (though it does still happen). i think i'd really like surfing big waves if i had the opportunity to surf them more frequently.

 

Gotta specify a little more... Pretty much all east coast waves are small compared to your "big wave" locations and I can't speak to them at all.

But big wave days on the east coast are definitely preferred more than knee high slop that we're plagued with but still manage to have fun on as well. I compare smaller waves to taking soft toss or hitting off a tee. There is plenty of time to slow down and focus on your basics in preparation for the big days. When a hurricane finally comes around and the surf starts pumping you can have a lot of fun if you've paid your dues on the small stuff.

THere is definitely some changes you have to make. You have to get your pop up as quick and concise as possible and make sure you're centered with your line picked out as you're paddling for the wave. Otherwise the extra power of the wave can make you look unprepared or get you hurt. Riding the bigger waves is when you can really get to know your board and your abilities and how they work together. You have to adjust for the additional speed and steeper drops. It used to be that I would need a good day to make the adjustments to surf bigger waves before I felt confident. Now the adjustments can be made in a wave or two.

One of the reasons professional surfers are so good is because they surf perfect powerful waves all the time. Not one of them would go out in the slop I surfed last night and I can't blame them. But even us non-pros can do some decent manuevers when there is enough power to the wave.

 

When I was younger, I used to prefer big waves, but now I just want waves and don't care if they're big, small, or anything in between. Any time there's waves and I can surf, I have just as much fun. I guess if anything, it's quality over size that matters to me most these days.

 

chest - 1ft OH is probably my prime comfort range. enough power to drive, lay into turns, get barreled, etc.

big enough that it's critical and also looking to take the best set waves. any bigger i'll be more selective and much less willing to huck myself into anything that comes through

 

this is definitely true.

 

Walking the nose, throwing buckets, power-surfing, cut backs, aerials, etc require a certain level of power to execute each maneuver. Your size, weight and board will factor in to what you can get away with at your break. Regardless, your positioning on your board will (most likely) chance depending on the size of the waves. If they are small - move closer to the nose. If they are larger - move towards the tail. Just like your fin, moving up an inch can go a long way. Experiment first, before you paddle out in hurricane waves.

I hope everyone on the East Coast is getting pumped for August & September.

 

Big day preference because less of you in the water. Big pulse of swell, day 1, 10 people out, 990 watching from the beach making excuses like, tide's on it, looks drifty. Second day of swell, fades to chest high, 990 scraping each other, 10 people watching and laughing.

 

So true. "Yeah man, the tide is on it." Funny, but true.

 

you should see this guy i know... this past weekend we had a little bit of swell and all he would tell us about is how he slammed the door on his toe. he probably surfed a total of 15 minutes friday through sunday and it wasn't even that big. people like that really piss me off...

 

haha i should have pulled that one on him... but really i've surfed with a broken toe and its more than tolerable. he decided he couldn't do good enough "bottom turns".

 

too general. getting toward DOH reefs with a nice channel or Points=lotsa fun. getting toward DOH beachbreak, at least east coast, too much work too dumpy/can't hold it & often in ****ty conditions. On the right board its all the same knee high to a couple overhead... after that it gets interesting. Not a big wave rider, no interest in it even in media (rather watch lip tricks than dudes go down the line however large the wave may be), but my preference would be 8-10ft east coast (4-5 island). Most comfortable here as this size allows my fatness to truely shine.

 

For me its not only size but the swell direction, tide and board choice that really dictates how I approach a session. In NJ when its mid sized, hollow, and peeling down the line then all I am concerned with is pulling into barrels, whether I think I can make it or not. The bigger it gets or if the inside has a lot of current then the more choosy I get on which waves to go on. When it's small I just go on everything whether it's a closeout or not. Both are fun in their own way.

You can try anything in small waves without much consequence, but when it gets bigger I am a little more hesitant. Although, bigger waves = more speed which makes it easier to do almost every type of turn as long as you time the sections right.

I guess whether it's big or small, surfing is just fun.

 

****ing nerds

 

I Don't know what it is but I get nervous on even 4 foot 3 foot waves I dont know what it is? Did any of you guys run into this in your younger teens. I already talked about it but I still get hesitant than I go over the falls and get this...
Doesn't look bad but hurts like a *****

 

I have a few friends who are like, "I'm done with big waves." My answer to that is... if it's 8' and perfect, you're gonna see it and start drooling and shaking and scrambling for your gear like a grom. But if it's 6' and gnarly board-snapping dumpers... well... that's just your age and good judgement whispering in your ear.

For me, perfect and waist high on the right board, and a couple overhead on the right board are just as much fun.

NOT!... Hhahahaha! I take it back.... now that I think about it. Overhead and perfect is WAY more fun!