I've read some disparaging comments about those who are landlocked. I used to live in New Orleans, Montgomery, Knoxville Tennessee for gods sake. I rode horse back through the mountains, went white river rafting, dove off cliffs, swam aginst the waterfalls, drank moonshine with the locals, all in search of the irreplaceable stoke of surfing. It does not matter to me if you bodysurf, bogie board, SUP, longboard, wave skii, stand up surf, big wave surf, whatever. If you crave the wave....you are a surfer. Period. Dot. You can take the boy out of the surf, but you can't take the surf out of the boy. You know what I mean.
Only fish and homeless people who live on the beach are surfers. In fact, if you leave the high tide mark, you're not a surfer.
I remember when I was living up in North Jersey for, like, 5 years, it took me an hour to get to the beach. I still surfed whenever I could, but weeks would go by without getting in the water. I was renting a room in a house, and kept my board (that's singular... "board") in the corner of my room because there was no place else to put it. Once in a while, if I was going through a particularly rough dry spell, I'd get depressed... I'd see my board leaning in the corner of my room and say to myself, "I'm not a surfer." And I was still managing to surf fairly regularly, all things considered! So I guess it's all in your head... how you define "a surfer" is probably different for everybody, and changes as you go through life. For me, there was no doubt I had the crave... the spirit... the will and ability to surf. But at the time, it didn't match my definition of what it was to be a surfer. Now I see things differently...
I remember living in New Orleans, in the early 80s. I was doing alot of traveling for work in the southeastern US, and took my board (one) with me no matter how far from the beach I lived. The apartment complex had a lake, and I paddled my board across it one day, just to have a board under me. I met a couple of very pretty local girls on the other side of the lake, they had never seen a surfboard. That was a fun evening in the hot tub.
An east coast surfer is someone who doesnt see rainy ****ty weather outside as anything but a sign that gifts are coming. I would be perfectly ok with it raining and storming 4 days a week knowing that on the backside of that the waves are going to be firing.
I've spent most of my 51 (almost 52) years living within a bicycle ride to the water. I known dozens, if not hundreds of dudes that lived within walking distance of the water that NEVER once even picked up a surf or booger board let alone rode a wave on one in the ocean. To them, the ocean was just there. Some place to take their kids when they weren't working. These guys (obviously) are not surfers. If you own a vehicle for riding waves in the ocean, and you use it, your a surfer. Period. Some guys just happen to surf more than others due to life's circumstance. However, like everything else in life, there is a hierarchy. Those that surf more tend to be better at it, just like anything else. Respect needs to be earned based on individual performance, just like the REAL world.
I was stationed in Oklahoma for 2 years. It was and will be the only time I have lived away from the coast.
I'd see my board leaning in the corner of my room and say to myself, "I'm not a surfer. glass half empty I'd see my board leaning in the corner of my room and say to myself, "I am a surfer." half full either way staring at boards and talking to oneself is a slippery slope..just sayin