solid dbl overhead but not quite trpl breaking clean for rights at about 15-20 seconds with a nice channel so I don't have to go head on ( OK maybe just once or twice in the shore break for a reality check). Also only a few people out in the water, mostly pretty good surfahs that have a respect for the mother ocean and each other. If the laws of nature require that there must be one kook it the lineup it would be preferred as a Victoria secret model and of course this place must be along long way away from here
-perfect! Long lines of chest to head glass with light offshore winds. Half a dozen or so people out there who take turns and hoot and hollar when you rip one. Doesnt have to be big and hollow. Just fun. After all, the best surfer in the lineup is the one who's having the most fun- right?
