I had to go get two staples in the back of my head yesterday from my surfboard striking me in a wipeout. When i surfaced after the impact of the board i was dazed and confused. (I ride a 7'3 XL 7S fish.) This board has already caused two knots in my head from hitting me. I surf with a leash as well. Its been two years now since I started surfing and this is the first hospital trip, but not the first injury. I am learning that its best to surf when others are in the water for the safety in numbers idea, but the hazards increase with that too. Our sport is gonna have people getting hurt. Surfing in Surfside Texas has its pros and cons, but the localism is subdued compared to other lo-cals in the world. Most surfers in the water on big surf days are from Houston, and you can get that city mentality inthe water, with people snaking your wave and dropping in on ya, but surfing is competitive whether we like it or not. And unless we have the attitude that we look out for our fellow surfers while in the water, when we do get hurt it could render us dead. So have compassion on the kooks, groms, wave hogs, and show offs, because they might save your life one day out in the water.
When the waves get large no one is going to know you are injured nor be able to help you. It's all in your head. You seem to be making the mistake of not covering your head. I got hit in the head when I first started and learned to cover my head until I feel my board. Have not been hit since. If you are covering your head there is not many ways you can be hit too bad. That may solve your problems. Are you covering up at all? Instantly your hands should go for your head and remain there until the wave is passed and you feel the board tug. There is no need for your arms anyway, no sense fighting the tumble.
This is all over a 1 foot Texas wave in knee deep water! I hope the judge kicks her out of court for being a stupid person.I hope the judge tells her to just stand up and move out the way next time instead of watching a board coming at your face in slow motion.
some years ago some foreign tourist was in the surf area, I didn't see him and did a cutback right into his face. big gash in the guys head. he complained but in the end he was beat. so surf zone safe, swim zone not. unless she's got $$$$ for a good lawyer.
on another occasion, about 8 of us were surfing a tight beach (jettys close together) that was not designated either way and some guy brought his young children out in the middle of us, then proceeded to freak on us. total moron. so if this lady swam out there I hope the judge realizes she's wrong.